Onam :National Festival of kerala

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Onam &onam rituals :Legend of Kerala is about the sweet memories of a period of peace and prosperity in the distant pas when Mahabali, a celebrated emperor of the Asuras, was supposed to be ruling over this land. His period is believed a have been the golden age in the history of the country. A popular folk song narrates the glories of that period. When Maveli ruled, all men were equal, they were leading a life of happiness and nobody had any calamity- thus goes the song. There was neither dishonesty nor deception, nor was there any instance of false utterance, use of counterfeit measures or other kinds of unfair practice. Perfect harmony, communal and otherwise, prevailed. In short it was an ideal welfare state, the legend tells us.

But this golden age came to a tragic close when Mahabali was expelled from his kingdom by Vamana, the dwarf incarnation of Vishnu. Thus by the designs of the jealous Gods, the glorious reign of the Asura emperor came to an end. But his greateful subjects, request that their former ruler might be permitted to visit the lance once a year, was granted. The time for his annual visit was in the first Malayalam month Chingom (August-September) and this occasion became one of jubilation throughout the land, reminiscent of the prosperous times of Mahabali.

Whatever be the truth behind this legend, Onam has for last several centuries been a grand national harvest festival in which all sections of the people participate with extreme jubilitation.

Talk to an old-timer about an "Onasadya" (traditional feast during Onam, the regional festival of Kerala) and one is in for a delectable ride down the memory lane.

The Tradition

Keralites celebrate Onam in commemoration of the social justice and prosperity during the rule of King Maha Bali. Whatever may be the truth behind the legends, Keralites are a lucky lot to have such a secular feast, at least once a year. Each one’s reminiscences of the ambience, the festive spirit and the excitement evoke images of a way of life, lost in the frantic pace of modern life. However, despite changes brought about in contents and preparation, the Onasadya still holds the place of pride in Onam celebrations.

Onasadya is prepared with religious ardor, irrespective of caste creed, religion or social status; expressed by the saying "Kaanam Vittum Onam Unnanam (may sell possessions to enjoy Onasadya)". The legacy of Onasadya, a "Nine Course Vegetarian Dinner", has no known parallels in any civilization or culture and is worth keeping with pride and zeal…

Preparation

The combination of (a) ingredients (b) method of preparation (c) type of vessels used and (d) sequence of serving is designed to add flavor and nutritive values and assist consumption as well as digestion. Here is an overview of its preparation (disregarding regional variations), with as many as 64 items, 8 basic courses in up to 8 varieties, extra over the basic item "par-boiled, un-skinned, fresh rice (puthen chambavu)".

· Chips (Upperi)

These are prepared in advance from (a) raw bananas (kaaya) (b) yam (chena) (c) jack fruit (chakka) (d) bitter gourd (pavayka) (e) egg plant fruit (vazhuthanga); by frying slices in coconut oil (essential for the taste), to a crisp condition.

Sarkarapuratti (Sarkaravaratty), an adaptation using banana cubes crisp fried in coconut oil and coated with syrup made from jaggery (sarkara), is still an essential part of Onasadya.

· Pickles (Achaar)

These also are to be prepared well in advance, so as to allow enough time to mellow. Pickles made from (a) mango (b) lemon (c) ginger (d) chillies and (e) curry naranga fall in this category.

· Pappads (Pappadam)

Prepared from black grams and fried in oil, this is usually served in three sizes viz. small, medium and large.

· Dry Vegetables (Thoran)

Prepared from vegetables starting with stems of yam (chena) or plantain, beans, cabbage or similar with green gram (whole or split) and split red chillies; grated coconut, cumin etc as masaala. Cooked dish will be seasoned with mustard seeds spluttered in coconut oil.

· Assorted Vegetables (Avial)

Prepared from a mixture of vegetables starting with raw bananas, drum-stick (muringakka), egg plant fruit (vazhuthanga), cucumber, split green chillies etc. with ground coconut, turmeric etc. as masaala. Avial in its full glory is the most preferred vegetarian dish of Malayalees.

· Condiments (Thodukarikal)

Kichadi / Pachadi: Prepared from vegetables such as (a) pine apple (b) cucumber (vellarikka) (c) egg plant fruit (vazhuthanaga) (d) ladies finger (vendakka) (e) bitter gourd (pavayka) or similar, using yoghurt mixed with ground coconut, cumin etc. as masaala. Cooked dish will be seasoned with mustard seeds spluttered in coconut oil. Taste of kichadi / pachadi is related to the vegetable ingredient, viz. pine apple will be sweet, bitter gourd will be sour etc.

Olan: Prepared from ash gourd (kumbalanga) slices, red grams with ground coconut, cumin seeds and red chillies as masaala.

· Sauces (Ozhikarikal)

Parippu: Prepared from lentil or skinned green grams and served with ghee (refined butter) and pappadam, as the first course.

Erissery, prepared from (a) pumpkins and red beans or (b) yam and raw bananas cubes with split green chillies and ground coconut, cumin seeds, turmeric and red chillies as masaala. The cooked dish will be seasoned with mustard seeds spluttered in oil. This dish is the main stay of any sadya, though not very popular in present day Onasadya.

Saambar, prepared from a mixture of vegetables starting with lentil, raw banana, yam, drum stick (muringakka), egg plant fruit (vazhuthanga) etc. with ground red chillies, asafoetida etc. as masaala. Though a favourite Mallu dish, saambar seems to be a later addition to the Onasadya.

Kaalan: Prepared from thick yoghurt and ground coconut, cumin seeds, turmeric and red chillies as masaala. The cooked dish will be seasoned with mustard seeds spluttered in oil. A variation uses cucumber cubes to add volume.

· Porridges (Paayasam / Pradhaman)

Prepared from (a) rice (b) split green grams (c) rice pasta (ada) etc. with milk and sugar or jaggery in various combinations; payasam is the desert for Onasadya. It is believed that morsels of pickles in between payasams add to its lingering taste.

· Supplements (Rasangal)

Sambaaram: In certain areas, it is customary to have a course of rice, sweet plantains, sambaram (prepared from yogurt, ginger and lemon leaves) and sugar to seal off the sadya.

Rasam, prepared from tomatoes in tamarind juice seasoned with bay leaves and mustard seeds spluttered in oil, is served with rice in certain areas to help digestion.

· Beverages

Water boiled with any or combination of (a) cumin (b) dried ginger (chukku) or similar, with known medical benefits, is generally served for drinking.

Serving Onasadya

Though not popular with all people, a full course will be served for Lord Ganpathi in front of a lighted oil lamp (Nila Vilakku), at the inception. This highlights the very culture of Malayalees, starting things with the thought and in the presence of God.

Onasadya is served in the end-cut of a plantain leaf (thoosanila), a clean and disposable plate, laid with the end to the left (adding some naturo-therapy as bonus). Traditional Onasadya is served on a mat laid on the floor, adding sanctum decorum.

Items shall be served in the same order as stated above, starting with a pinch of salt reminding one to have it with grace (and gratitude to all those who made it possible).